Serenity Bobbed Out!

Spit Shined & Ready to Ride!

I have owned several bikes over the last ten years or so but I must confess I haven't enjoyed owning a bike as much as I have my Suzuki Intruder 1400 since my Harley-Davidson Nightster! Like the Nightster, there are hundreds of things that you can do to the Intruder that many Japanese bikes are limited by. I have spent the last few months, in particular, the last week especially, bobbing out my bike as much as I can without actually changing the structural integrity of the bike. Inspired by many of the ideas I have seen via Intruder Alert and Blue Collar Bobbers, I am proud of the end result given that there isn't anything that any Joe Schmo couldn't do himself. The final touch were some decals that I added today after washing the bike and prepping it for this coming weekend's ride to Mont-Tremblant, Quebec. My son added a few personal touches, a five year old biker in the making, he was particularly helpful this week keeping me company and losing my nuts and bolts. It's part of the adventure of home shop repair and modifications when you're a father of two! ;-)

Serenity Bobbed-Out!

Decals of a 1940's Pin Up

Can You Spot My Son's Addition?

Autobot, Naturally!

The saddle bag was purchased several years ago on eBay. I think the brand name is LaPera, but I am not sure. I had originally bought it for my Nightster but found it didn't fit quite right. The decals were also purchased online via eBay when I was still living in Ireland. Again, they were originally destined for the Nightster... but as fate would have it we moved home to Canada in 2010. These things sat for years unused until today. Surprisingly, it brought everything together on my bike and I couldn't be happier. My son in particular was rather pleased about the Autobot insignia being placed on the bike. Although if it were up to him, it would have been placed directly on the tank facing upward. A tad too dramatic for my tastes but we found a happy compromise and it now has a home on the back of my front fender. Surprisingly, again, it doesn't actually look bad at all and suits the chromed out engine of the Suzuki Intruder. It's a nice little reminder whilst out riding that I have two wonderful little boys waiting for me back home! =-)

Did I mention my wife is a Redhead too... yum yum!

All Dressed Up and No Place to Ride?!

Fishtail Pipes Finish off the Bobbed-look Nicely!

Autobots, Roll Out!

The pin-up was originally blond but at my request the eBay seller (unfortunately I cannot recall who at this point) changed her to a red-head. I have always admired the pin-up art used on WWII bombers and wanted a similar theme. It leaves something to the imagination as oppose to a lot of the graphics that exist today which are merely vinyl porn. Call me old fashioned but I think the pin-ups from the 40's and 50's had a bit more class. After all, Serenity is still a lady at the end of the day! ;-)

I took my bike for a short spin today and admittedly, I had to tweak a few things here and there to get her just right and comfortable for riding. I love the fact that I am getting to know a new side of this bike as its been well over two years now that I have ridden with Ape Bars. I originally had 12 inch Apes on my Nightster. These Ape bars are only 10inches high but because of the high rake and profile of the Intruder, they actually feel much higher than the Apes I had on my Nightster. 

So there you have it, a stock Suzuki Intruder transformed into something 'more me' in just a short period of time. Most importantly, my son feels like its now his bike too, an important part of nurturing his interest in an otherwise wonderful past time for most or, as in my case, a way of life. I can't wait for the day he will be old enough (and tall enough) to ride with me... I know what you're thinking, my wife says NO to sidecars.... sigh. Cheers!

Installing a RefinedCycle HM1 Mount & HDLT5-1 Headlight

Things Are Looking Up!

As mentioned in my previous blog, Installing Wild 1 Chubby Outlaw 10 Inch Z Bars & Harley Vintage Gran Turismo Grips, I found myself at the end of the experience with a beautiful bike but no way of starting it! So after crying about it for twelve hours or so I decided to get a start on rectifying the problem the very next afternoon and took the headlight apart again. Only this time, I figured I'd also start on installing the brand new RefinedCycle HM1 Mount Adapter & HDLT5-1 Headlight I had purchased some several months ago. As always I had waited so long because of no other reason than a genuine lack of confidence. However, the more I take this bike apart the more I find myself wanting to take everything apart just to see if I can put it back together! ;-) I decided to prep by getting everything I required including a soldering kit, which inevitably would not be necessary! Suffice it to say, there is something extremely satisfying about working on your own bike; even more so when you complete the job and realize you didn't get ripped off from some shop who has a penchant for over charging -  an epidemic amongst some shops in Montreal!

What's more, after having removed the original headlight and bucket, I fiddled around with everything and managed to get my bike started again! So lesson learned! Well, kinda... now the headlight won't work but there you have it people, always have a proper wiring diagram in front of you when doing this kind of thing and don't forget to label everything. It isn't fool proof, but it is idiot proof! ;-) In order to install this particular kind of headlight (RefinedCycle HDLT5-1) you will require the following bits and bobs:

1. Phillips Screw Driver
2. Allan Keys
3. Scotch Tape
4. One Pen
5. Plastic Bag
6. Three Bolts (as they are NOT included with the HM1 Mount or HDLT5- 1 Headlight from RefinedCycle - Cheeky in my opinion!
7. Lock Tite (Blue)
8. Drill

I managed to get the bucket off and rewired everything (without new headlight attached) in less than an hour! As for installing the new headlight I had to modify the new headlight bucket first! So that had to wait until this morning. By taking your time and being patient you will find that you and a monkey's uncle could get this job done. So without further ado, let's have a look at the step by step process on how to install and modify a new headlight:

Step 1:
Unscrew the bolts securing the original headlight.

Step 2:
With Scotch tape and a pen label each wire with a number.
(or something of your choice)

Step 3:
Remove rear bracket that supports and protects rear wires.

Step 4:
Remove nuts with a spanner or ratchet.
(Sounds like a man's worst nightmare, n'est pas?)

Step 5:
Once old headlight bucket is free begin feeding wires
through hole at rear of bucket.

Step 6:
Remove bucket completely and place somewhere safe.

Step 7:
Do NOT lose this rubber grommet! You WILL need it again!

Step 8:
Feed primary wire harness through the hole in the center of the lower triple tree.
Depending on what kind of new headlight you have purchased you will NOT
be able to re-use this hole again!

Step 9:
Secure your wires properly and place inside a bag
or other waterproof device.
In this instance I taped the bag thoroughly around the neck of each cable
and later placed my bike under its waterproof cover.
This worked just fine for me!

Step 10:
Take your new headlight and prep it for modification!
In this case I removed the inner headlight, rings, and mount supports.

Step 11:
You can use either the Rubber Grommet
or the Original Headlight for this step.
Cover or place grommet where you want to drill.

Step 12:
When you are satisfied on location mark it with a Sharpie Marker.

Step 13:
Colour in area with Sharpie Marker. Correct where and if needed .

Step 14:
Begin Drilling. Drill the entire area until you have the shape  and size required/
I do not have a file but if you do it would be worth smoothing out the details.
As you can see it isn't the prettiest hole but the size was just perfect!

Step 15:
Place the rubber Grommet from the original headlight bucket
to the NEW headlight bucket! As you can see, it is a perfect fit.

Step 16a:
Check inside to ensure that the Rubber Grommet is also secure and fitted properly.

Step 16b:
As you can see it looks pretty darn nice.

Step 16c:
It gives the new bucket a sense of factory 'fitted'

Step 17:
Remove the bulb and housing unit from both the new and old headlight.

Step 18:
As you can see they are pretty much identical.
No Soldering Required!!

Step 19:
The NEW headlight accepted the old headlight housing unit.
However, at this point I installed a new high intensity white light bulb.

Step 20:
Insert and secure old headlight housing unit into NEW headlight.
The original Rubber headlight rubber grommet installs directly over the new headlight rear.

Step 20a:
The NEW wiring harness is next to the NEW headlight.
I am actually pleased that I did not have to solder or replace the original one.

Step 21:
Reassemble the NEW headlight bucket.

Step 22:
The mount supports are perfectly aligned with the rubber grommet!

Step 23:
The mount support screws are perfectly aligned with the screw.

Step 24:
Voila. Ready for installation on the motorcycle.

Step 25:
Install RefinedCycle HM1 headlight mount and bucket support.
You will have to buy the required bolts to support these two items
from your local hardware store or motorcycle shop.

Step 26:
Attach and secure NEW headlight bucket.

Step 27:
Once attached, prepare headlight for wire installation.

Step 28:
I found it easier to move the new headlight bucket forward.

Step 29:
Feed ALL wires through the rubber grommet at the back of the headlight.
Unfortunately this is a small bucket and
what took twenty minutes to finish the  day before took over an hour.
My hands were TOO big to adequately move around inside the bucket in order
to attach the wires inside. Visibility is dark back there as well, so have a helper with a flashlight if possible!

Step 30:
Once all wires are connected attach the headlight itself and insert into bucket.
Secure headlight with rings that are included with the headlight.
I managed to get everything done inside an hour and a half, but again, that is due to the awkwardness
of the size of the bucket and my hands.

Step 31:
Secure all bolts and align headlight properly so that maximum visibility and effectiveness is obtained.
Tape any visible wires with electrical tape and secure appropriately.
Nota Bene:
The original wire harness has been re-routed to the right side of the bike as visible in the picture.

Step 32:
Step back and admire your handiwork!

I still have to reconnect the headlight properly but as mentioned above, the bike starts fine now. I actually purchased a Haynes Manual for the Suzuki Intruder yesterday and it arrived today! All in all, the experience was great and as mentioned above, the pleasure of actually working on your bike cannot  be overstated enough. It's a great way to spend time with little helpers, such as my son, whilst also learning the inside out of the motorcycle that you trust every day to get you from point a to z. The new headlight was the last thing I had purchased that needed installation... at least for now. ;-)

I spent $$$$'s since October getting the bike mechanically and aesthetically ready for the season. Keep in mind, I bought this bike from a gentleman who was the original owner. He had placed 32, 900 km on the bike since 1996 (when he bought it new) and had not ridden it in two years time! Thus, the bike has had a battery of things done to it including but not limited to:

1. Full Tune Up/Service
2. New Tires - Front & Back
3. New Brakes - Front & Back
4. New Battery
5. New NGK Spark Plugs
6. New Air Filter(s)
7. New Oil Filters
8. Oil Change - Shaft, Fork  and Basic
9. Brake Fluid Change
10. New Fork Seals and Dust Seals
11. Hydraulic Fluid Change
12. New Jardine Fishtail Pipes
13. Re jet of Carbs in lieu of new pipes.
14. New Electrosport Voltage Regulator Rectifier 
15. Certification with the SAAQ - Mandatory in Quebec after being off of the road for two years!
16. Installation of Jardine Backrest extension
17. Installation of Corbin Dual Tour Saddle
18. Refined Cycle Headlight and mount
19. Wild 1 Z Bars with Gran Turismo grips
20. etc...

Thus far the bike has been ideal for modifications despite initial concerns that, like the Yamaha Virago for instance, it would be limited to just a few basic cosmetic changes. However, the Suzuki Intruder 1400 has proven to be as versatile as the Harley-Davidson Nightster I owned back in the Republic of Ireland. For instance, despite being listed as 7/8, when I swapped the bars out for 1 inch I have not had to change the controls or throttle sleeves! They fit perfectly! The same can be said about any purchase I have made for the bike.

In short, if your looking for a cheap cruiser with multiple customization options the Suzuki Intruder could be for you! Being shaft drive, it is virtually maintenance free and it has all the power you could possibly want from the 1400cc engine that is as torquey as it is fun and relaxing to ride. There are various examples of people bobbing these bikes out ranging from something relatively mild (as what I have done) to the extreme whereby the bike has been chopped and boasts a Mad Max appeal with a raked out front end that would give Orange County Choppers a run for their money!

Having stopped production of this particular model (also known as the S83) in 2009,the Suzuki Intruder 1400 is slowly but surely becoming a classic in its own right. A nice alternative to the Harley-Clones, you cannot go wrong with it; so if you ever come across one of these bikes for sale go for it! You'll be pleasantly surprised! Ride Safe!

Installing Wild 1 Chubby Outlaw 10 inch Z Bars & Harley Vintage Gran Turismo Grips

Prepping the Patient!

Since buying my 1996 Suzuki Intruder 1400 I have been inundating folks at Intruder Alert with various questions regarding nearly everything and anything about the bike. I had purchased several parts for the bike prior to even taking ownership of it and thus their patience and friendliness has helped me come to understand the inner workings of my girl, Serenity. One constant uncertainty for me, however, has been the Wild 1 Chubby Outlaw 10 inch Z Bars which I purchased for the bike back in November or December 2011. Thanks to the folks at Intruder Alert keeping everyone up-dated on their day to day opinions and up-grades of this model bike I noticed that many have swapped their handlebars out on this bike. However, it begs to question whether all Intruder's are built equally?! I ask because apparently some have said my 10 inch bars would fit whilst others swear they wouldn't. Admittedly, once the bike was in my possession I had my doubts that the brake hose in particular would stretch far enough.

Adding to it all was the discrepancies I was getting in prices for a new brake and clutch hose. Moto-Sport Newman on the South Shore wanted to charge me $300.00 for the two lines including fittings. The same store, but in LaSalle wanted to charge me $275.00 for the same lines! Finally, L'Amis Denis Honda in Lennoxville, Sherbrooke actually wanted to charge me $150.00 for the two lines! None of these quotes include labor or installation costs. I nearly went with the latter but after two to three months of trying to figure out what will or will not work on my bike I decided to just throw caution to the wind today and bite the bullet! Installing the new bars was actually really easy to do and requires nothing more than proper preparation and planning. This blog will show you how to install a set of Wild 1 Chubby Outlaw 10 inch Z Bars using stock (OEM) brake and clutch hoses! I will also show you how to install new (old stock) Harley-Davidson Vintage Gran Turismo Grips. You will need the following items to pull this off:

1. Scotch Tape
2. One Pen
3. One Phillips Screw Driver
4. Allan Keys
5. One Shoe Lace (really...)
6. A Vacuum Cleaner (stay with me...)
7. Drill
8. Lock Tite (Blue)
9. Crazy Glue
10. Bit of Luck....

With the above ten things I managed to do this. Keep in mind that I am not a mechanic nor am I nearly as knowledgeable as 99% of the bikers on Intruder Alert. However, I did this on my own begging to question, if a noob like me can do it, imagine what you can do! Without further ado simply follow these steps:

Step 1:
After covering your tank (avoid unnecessary dings) begin with the headlight.

Step 2:
Remove headlight and expose internal wiring.
(Don't panic!)

Step 3:
BEFORE disconnecting anything, LABEL EVERYTHING!
Disconnect everything carefully. Disconnect one at a time.
You need to give a small tug, nothing more.

Step 4:
I used numbers because I can count. :-p
You can use letters, names, roman numerals, Shakespearean quotes...
Just be realistic about how much you can write on a piece of scotch tape!

Step 5:
Remove the back plate of the headlamp.
This is a must as it is what holds the cables securely in place.

Step 6:
Place back plate and screws some place safe.

Step 7:
As you can see you can simply pull the control cables out gently and place to the side.

Step 8:
Repeat for the other side.
At this point, your headlight is off, your cables disconnected and labelled,
and the wiring is no longer in the bucket of the headlight!

Step 9:
Remove the Chrome Caps on the risers.
They are made out of plastic so be careful not to crack them.

Step 10:
Remove the Chrome Caps on the lever and mirror mounts.

Step 11:
Riser View After Cap Removal.
Remove the four bolts with an Allan Key!

Step 12:
Lever and Mirror Mount View After Cap Removal.
Remove the two bolts on each side of the bike with an Allan Key!

Step 13:
Do NOT pull mounts off
until you have carefully removed the connectors on each side.!
Place the Clutch and Brake Lines with attached mounts gently over the front of the bike/

Step 14:
Before you can remove the bars remember that the Throttle cable needs to be removed first!

Step 15:
Remove the screws on each housing.
Be careful with the throttle side as it also houses, well, the throttle cable!

Step 16:
There is a support bracket below the throttle and kill switch housing.
Remove the screw and leave it where it is. It cannot go anywhere else.

Step 17:
When opening the housing unit disconnect the throttle cable!

Step 18:
Take note of which section the throttle cable came from.
(Second hole Closest to my Finger!)

Step 19:
This is what everything should look like by now!

Step 20:
Gently pull the bars up.
Slow and Steady, remember you don't want your classification system
a la scotch tape to get ripped off in any way!

Step 21:
Time to reassure you patient everything will be OK!
Total time, from start to finish: 45 Minutes TOPS!

Step 22:
Unless you are lucky and have an indoor garage,
I suggest you put a bag over your headlight bucket to keep the elements out!

Step 23:
Time to pull the wires out!
Again, do so gently so not to accidentally rip off your taped classification system!

Step 24:
As you pull from one side feed the other end gently and take your time.

Step 25:
Set your cables to the side and prep for installation into the new bars!

Step 26:
You will have to DRILL replacement holes to secure your Switch Housings!
Depending on what year Intruder 1400 you own you may or may not
have to do the same thing on the bottom of your new bars
in order to fit the stock (OEM) risers!

Step 27:
My buddy Baxter here suggests
using any type of plastic bag, then tearing it up and wrap the bottom of clumped wires together!
Tape it as well! This will protect not only the tips of your wires
but equally as important at this stage your classification system!

Step 28:
IMPORTANT: Tie a Shoe Lace to the tip of your wrapped up wires!
This makes the next step as easy as bumble berry pie... mmmmm, pie.

Step 29:
I have read various tips on how to go about running wires internally.
Some have used magnets, others wire.
Personally, I opted for a VACUUM CLEANER!!
It'll suck that shoe lace right up!

Step 30:
Once your trusty vacuum cleaner has done its job
than simply pull the cables out through the bottom hole.
Feed the top hole as you go along to help facilitate the process.
Z Bars are tricky fekkers for internal wiring and hence I was pleased at how easy this was!
Total time:
LESS THAN 10 MINUTES FOR BOTH SIDES!!!!!!

Step 31:
Handlebar Grips are easy enough to install
but here is a quick guide to how do so in case you never have before.
Remove the cap ends on each side of the bar.
Just give them a good hard twist and tug! ;-)

Step 32:
The throttle sleeve is stock (OEM)!
I merely removed the old grip and replaced it with my Gran Turismo set.
I used soapy water to help me slide it over the throttle sleeve!
I also kept the end chrome bit that was originally on it.
IMPORTANT:
DO NOT USE CRAZY GLUE WHEN REAPPLYING THE THROTTLE GRIP!

Step 33:
The left hand side is far less complicated.
You will need Ultra Bond or some other sealant.  Apply generously and slide into place and hold.

Step 34:
HOWEVER,
I wanted to use the stock (OEM) chrome end tip that the original grips had.
So I heated the left hand grip.

Step 35:
Than I inserted the chrome end tip.
This finishes off both sides of the bike nicely and is now mirror image of one another.
This is a personal preference, thus, feel free to skip Step 34 and Step 35 if you wish!

Step 36:
Thank your wife
(or husband, as the case may be...)
for helping out and have her pose with the completed project!

Step 37:
Install your handlebars on your risers. I am using stock risers.
Also, start to replace your bits and bobs such as clutch controls, switch housing, etc...
Use Lock Tite for added security.

Step 38:
Reroute the Throttle Cable
so that it comes out from under the tank straight up to your throttle sleeve.
Originally it went through the the triple trees and connect to the throttle sleeve.
There is no manual work involved, this takes less than a second!

Step 39:
Replace the right hand side throttle cable in the appropriate slot
(remember, second one closest to the front of the bike - or my thumb, as the case may be!)

Step 40:
Return the brake lever and mirror mount to its original place.
There is PLENTY of slack for the Clutch Hose! You DO NOT have to replace it!
However, The Brake Line is AT ITS LIMIT!
There is enough play whereby it is safe! Thus, 10 INCH bars DO FIT with STOCK CABLES!
:-)

Step 41:
Replace Chrome Caps on Riser Nuts

Step 42:
Replace Chrome Caps on Mirror Mount Nuts

Step 43:
Time to Re-Connect the Wires!

Step 44:
Slide Wires through the back end of the bucket via the rubber grommet. 

Step 45:
As much as possible, organize the wires so that they
do not get entangled as you begin to reconnect everything!

Step 46:
The last piece to reconnect is the headlight!
It doesn't hurt to have a little helper!

Step 47:
If you find you have one (1) extra of these, don't despair.
Think back, there was an extra one when you started. 

Step 48:
Replace the back plate on the headlight bucket.

Step 49:
Voila, Admire Your Handiwork!
My Son is Particularly Pleased with his Contribution!

Step 50:
Pretty Damn Cool, if you don't mind my saying so!
My Son Approves!
(or is constipated, not sure which... :-p)

Of course, I checked everything afterwards and admittedly, I can't get the bike started now LOL!!! But hey, at least I know the problem lies in my reconnecting of the wires in the bucket. So that will be my project for tomorrow. Happily, everything else works though! (...my suspicion is on wire number 9... I digress - sigh) Anyways, I am really happy with the job done and it looks absolutely fantastic. I love ape bars and could never go back to anything else. Personally I think they are very comfortable and suit my style of riding far more than conventional bars. As you can see from the pictures above, the Intruder was definitely made for them as well! Best of all I saved hundreds of dollars just by 'manning up', so to speak and getting to it instead of talking myself out of it!

I'd like to end this particular blog by dedicating it to the folks at Intruder Alert! In particular, I wish to thank the following people for putting up with my endless questions over the course of the last few months. They really didn't have to be so darn nice to a total stranger. Nor did they have to answer my questions over and over again without fail. Their advice, sympathy and expertise gave me the know how and courage to grab the bull by the horns and get to it. So thank you Griph, Tiny75, and bigt7088. I would also like to acknowledge bigskyintruder's original thread on how to swap your handlebars which was equally as invaluable. If I forgot anyone in particular I am sorry but thanks does go out to the entire community for their help and support.

Oh, and thank you to my wife, son and my pooch, Baxter for all their help today!